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East Pacific - XXL Swell in the Long-Range Forecast

A significant swell is showing in the long-range East Pacific model, with Buoy 46006 (SE PAPA, 600 NM West of Eureka, CA) forecast to reach 33 feet at 13 seconds (W 276°) on Friday, January 20th.

The long-range model is subject to revision, but the forecast for Half Moon Bay is currently showing swell conditions approaching 23 feet at 15 seconds (WNW 292°) by Saturday afternoon (1/21).

We’ll be keeping an eye on the models to see how this swell develops over the next few days.

January 19th Update: Swell Sightly Downgraded

The swell is a bit smaller than initially forecast, with swell conditions at @buoy46006 now expected to peak Friday afternoon at 29 feet at 13 seconds (W 266°). The Half Moon Bay buoy is expected to build rapidly on Saturday and peak in the evening at 21 feet at 14 seconds (WNW 290°).

Come Hell or High Water West Coast Premiere

The west-coast premiere of Keith Malloy’s Come Hell or High Water is tomorrow (Friday) night in Encinitas, at the La Paloma Theater. Tickets will be available at the La Paloma box office the day of the showing. It doesn’t look like there are any presale or online options. Doors open at 7 p.m. and the film screens at 8 p.m.

The film explores the history and progression of the sport of bodysurfing and the pureness that comes from riding a wave. Shot primary in 16mm, the film takes a unique look at the culture, beauty and simplicity of the sport, capturing the stories and locations of those who belong to this community.

More information about Come Hell or High Water, including future screening dates and locations, is available here.

The North Pacific Awakens

It’s still not officially winter, but the North Pacific’s summer slumber is officially over. The first big swell of the 2011-2012 winter season is making its way towards the Pacific Northwest with enough size to test your summer training regimen.

Washington and Oregon will receive the brunt of the energy, with surf heights building rapidly throughout Wednesday and peaking in the 16 feet at 15 seconds range (WNW 283°).  shows the swell peaking 

The Stonewall Banks (@buoy46050) forecast also shows a large, moderate-period swell on Monday (10 feet at 12 seconds WNW 286°), which might provide a good opportunity to dust off the gun before Wednesday.

Further south, the Half Moon Bay forecast shows the swell peaking early Thursday morning in Northern California, with swell conditions of 12 feet at 15 seconds (WNW 301°). Long-period forerunners in the 17-second range are expected to appear in the real-time reports (@buoy46012) by Wednesday evening.

Hawaii will also see some action from this swell, however it will primarily be sideband energy, and thus wave heights will not be as big. The Waimea Bay forecast shows surf heights building through the day on Wednesday, reaching about 5 feet at 13 seconds (NNW 340°) by nightfall, then tapering off slowly into the weekend.

Point Mugu Offshore Buoy Added

Point Mugu, California

The Point Mugu Offshore buoy is now reporting real-time wave and meteorological observations via Twitter at @buoy46250… for those select few who can actually get on base.

By the way, the 2011 NBVC Point Mugu Surf Contest Presented by Quiksilver is scheduled for August 20-21, and they are still accepting military and women’s division entrants through Monday, August 8th. Fees are a bit steep for civilians, but then again, you don’t defend our country.

Year Zero trailer from Globe. World Premiere goes down in Costa Mesa, California on August 3rd. Can’t wait.

The film was shot on location around the world entirely in super 16mm film and offers a unique concept with stunning visuals that capture the essence of surfing in a novel setting. YEAR ZERO follows GLOBE’S previous award winning productions such as SECRET MACHINE and NEW EMISSIONS OF LIGHT AND SOUND and is undoubtedly GLOBE’S largest film project to date.