Tagged: xxl

Opening Day at Jaws

Shane Dorian claims an XXL barrel yesterday at Peahi. Primary swell conditions at the Pauwela station for October 9, 2012 show a building NW swell, which actually peaked overnight at 15 feet at 17 seconds and a maximum wave power of 169 kW/m.

Here’s another highlight reel of both days.

The swell is expected to drop through the remainder of the week, reaching more mortal-level wave heights by Friday.

Hawaii Surfing/

Volcom Fiji Pro Runs 2 Heats, Calls it Quits

Volcom Fiji Pro

Sure there are a lot of logistics to consider. Producing a webcast from a remote region of the south Pacific has got to be a challenge. I’m not in Fiji, so I don’t know how much gear was broken down from the scaffolding, boated over to Restaurants, only to be returned to Cloudbreak. And yes, there was some bump on the face, making for less-than-perfect conditions. But the reality is that the ASP’s willingness to run in solid 15-foot surf was challenged today and they backed down. After 80 minutes of competition (props to the four contestants in the final two heats of round 2) the contest was put on hold.

In defense of the ASP, the forecast is calling for solid SSW energy over the next few days. Contestable conditions (perhaps even bigger than today) are expected throughout the weekend, and with seven days left in the holding period, there’s good reason to lay off the trigger.

Whether round three paddles out at Cloudbreak or Restaurants has yet to be determined, but it’s unlocked a Pandora’s box of questions for the contest officials, as well as the ASP in general. The first and foremost being, why didn’t the Volcom Fiji Pro run more than two heats today?

Beeru Guy

Fishing and drinking beer is great. But if you’re paid to surf, shouldn’t you have the skills and confidence to step up? It’s one thing to work all winter saving money for your summer surf trip to Fiji, or get a job on Tavarua as a boatman, but if you’re one of the top 36 surfers in the world lucky enough to get into the event, shouldn’t you be prepared for anything?

The world saw what Cloudbreak was capable of in 2011. Patagonia delivered it to mailboxes across the globe. It’s ridiculous to think that the ASP should shy away from today’s conditions. I’m sorry, but professional surfers in 2012 should be able to handle any and all conditions. If tour members have to compete in shoulder-high onshore mush, they should be equally prepared for triple-overhead reef breaks. Not to say that the ASP elite weren’t ready and able, but the free surfers were the hungriest of the bunch.

That being said, Cloudbreak is expected to continue its XXL push through tomorrow, so Saturday will provide another opportunity for the ASP to make a decision. Sure the wind might not be right, the swell unmanageable, but the world will be watching. If the ASP flinches, no matter the reason, expect criticism from an audience that expects the most celebrated surfers to tackle the most extreme conditions mother nature can create. Isn’t that the point?

Contest South Pacific Surfing/

XXL Swell Approaching Volcom Fiji Pro

An XXL-sized swell is about to collide with the ASP again this year, this time at the 2012 Volcom Fiji Pro. With conditions forecast to top out around 12 feet at 17 seconds, this upcoming swell is expected to be a touch smaller than 2011’s tube-fest that produced both Monster Tube and Ride of the Year XXL award nominations. This time around though, Kelly doesn’t have to skip the event to score massive Cloudbreak.

Here’s a look at how the primary swell data stacks up, with the 2011 swell first, followed by the forecast for Friday and Saturday. Long-period (20-second) forerunner energy is expected early Friday morning, with swell heights building throughout the day and reaching 12-feet by dark. Solid SSW energy continues to pour in on Saturday, with consistent swell conditions of 12 feet at 16 seconds (208°) expected.

While this swell isn’t expected to reach last year’s peak of 14 feet at 17 seconds, it will provide the largest surf contested so far by the ASP elite during the 2012 season. If the footage from last year’s swell is any indication, it’s definitely going to be a webcast worth tuning into.

Member Bonus: Here’s a link to the July 12, 2011 forecast (requires a Buoy Alarm account).

Contest Forecast South Pacific Surfing/

Mavericks – February 8th, 2012

Buoy 46012 - Half Moon Bay (Mavericks) Surf February 8, 2012

Here’s a look at the real-time wave reports from Half Moon Bay (@buoy46012) yesterday. Solid 15-second swell energy in the 12-15 foot range. Throw some light winds into the mix and this is what you get.

Buoy Alarm is a resource for ocean enthusiasts and we’re very close to launching. If personalized real-time alarms, access to historical surf conditions, and a detailed swell forecast interest you, we encourage you to join our invite list.


Makawao. After Hours. 2 a.m.

Be sure to stay tuned to the end of the video for a “visualization” exercise led by Mr. Wassel. Apparently it works too, because the wave he paddled into at Jaws has got to be the frontrunner for the XXL paddle award.

Below are the historical wave reports from January 4th, 2012. Looks like the swell conditions at the Pauwela station (@buoy51205) maxed out around 14 feet at 17 seconds.

Buoy 51205 - Pauwela, Maui, Hawaii


Hawaii – December 29th Surf Forecast

Hawaii surf forecast update for December 29th, 2011: A little something for everyone over the next seven days. Moderate northwest surf continues into the weekend, with improving conditions as the wind backs off. Monday, January 2nd is looking fun, with a fresh NNW swell and light easterly winds expected. Wednesday will see high surf advisory conditions, with gusty NE tradewinds in the 15-20 knot range.

Moderate northwest surf is expected to linger into the weekend, with biggest conditions this morning. A slight reinforcement is expected on Saturday, with a larger North-Northwest pulse (8 feet at 15 seconds, 330°) building New Year’s Day into Monday.

An extra-large NNW swell builds rapidly Tuesday (1/3) afternoon into Wednesday, with conditions currently expected to reach 17 feet at 16 seconds (328°) by morning. Expect high surf advisory conditions with gusty northeast tradewinds.

With another swell lining up behind Wednesday’s, it looks like 2012 is off to a great start!


2011 Billabong Pico Alto Set To Run Thursday

The second event of the 2011 Big Wave World Tour is set to run this Thursday, August 11 at Pico Alto, Punta Hermosa beach, about 43 km south of Lima. Some of the best big-wave surfers in the world are headed to Peru, with solid 30-foot faces and good conditions in the forecast.

With a solid long period swell on the way with great direction and light winds, Pico Alto will provide some excellent waves for this year’s event. While not quite as big as last year, the quality looks to be better and we can expect a very high level of big wave performance surfing.

– Big Wave World Tour Director Gary Linden

Marcos Monteiro is currently leading the BWWT after his victory at Punta de Lobos, with fellow South Americans Ramon Navarro and Gabriel Villaran on his heels. The 2011 invitee list also includes 2010 BWWT champion Jamie Sterling, as well as Peter Mel, Greg Long, Carlos Burle, Mark Healey, and Kohl Christensen.


http://vimeo.com/24346282 Each year surfers push the bar a little higher, the limit a little further

Each year surfers push the bar a little higher, the limit a little further. Once they do, there’s no going back. Remember when Waimea was the mecca of big waves? Now it’s a warm-up. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still gnarly, but not this gnarly. When jet skis entered the arena, it was a game changer that shifted the physical limits of what was possible… which leads us to the V1 wetsuit from Billabong.

Equipment has always been important in providing a competitive edge in surfing, and throughout the years many of these innovations have been adopted into the mainstream. But big wave surfing is far from mainstream. It requires a level of dedication and commitment that isn’t reflected in the 50-foot glory of the XXL Award videos. Elite big wave riders are literally straddling the edge of human capability, where simply being in the wrong place at the wrong time can cost you your life.

Unless you’re capable of surviving a two-wave hold-down, you really have no business owning one of these things. Just like you don’t throw on a spacesuit and launch into the atmosphere. It’s troublesome to imagine someone simply waltzing into their local surf shop to buy one. So just who does Billabong think they’re going to sell these to?

More importantly, what happens when it doesn’t inflate? It’s certainly a possibility. The canister could fail and suddenly you’ll need to actually swim to the surface. Much like the jet ski made big waves accessible to anyone who could afford one, the V1 has the potential to lure unprepared surfers into conditions they would be uncomfortable in without it.

There’s no doubt the V1 will unlock a whole new level of big wave performance, just remember, there aren’t any shortcuts to preparation and experience.