The Tahitian mega-swell is making its way across the Pacific at the moment, with 25-second SSW (201°) forerunners expected to reach the Point Loma buoy by Wednesday. Wave heights will continue to rise through Thursday as the swell fills, with solid 20-17 second swell periods expected through Friday.
Given the tremendous amount of energy this swell is packing, the forecast remains favorable throughout the entire holiday weekend, with conditions of 3 feet at 15 seconds persisting through Monday. Expect the swell to peak late Thursday into Friday, with primary swell conditions forecast to reach 4 feet at 18 seconds.
Looking back into the Spring, the Point Loma buoy reported conditions of 7 feet at 17 seconds on May 19th, 2011, and on June 1st the station reported primary swell conditions of 5 feet at 17 seconds. Based on the forecast, it looks like this week’s surf will likely fall between both in size, although we’ll have to wait for the real-time data to be sure.
Keep an eye on the Point Loma buoy (@buoy46232) starting Wednesday as the long-period forerunners begin to fill-in, and get ready for a solid 5 days of surf!