Southern California Surf Forecast as of Monday, August 15, 2011: The current SSW swell continues to decline into tomorrow. Long-period Southerly (176-180°) forerunners are expected to build through Tuesday, with wave heights peaking on the Point Loma buoy at 3 feet at 15 seconds (180°) by mid-day Wednesday.
Looking at the detailed swell component chart, the Point Loma station should begin reporting 17-second forerunners early Tuesday morning, as the increasing South swell overtakes the fading South-Southwest as the primary swell.
The model is showing a slight spike in wave height on Tuesday afternoon, as well as mid-morning on Wednesday. They are likely a blip in the model; a result of the SSW component being combined with the South, instead of distinguished as a separate wave field. The variation is only 0.5 feet though, so it shouldn’t result in any substantial deviation from the anticipated wave heights.
After the swell peaks on Wednesday, look for wave heights to decline through Friday, with increasing short-period WNW wind swell building on Friday into Saturday.
Unfortunately the long-range outlook is pretty bad at the moment, with the South Pacific opting for a late-Summer nap (Tuesday, August 23, 2011 – Swell Period & Direction chart above. Zzzzz….). On the bright side, it will be a great opportunity to make-up for that camping trip with your girlfriend / daughter’s soccer match / visit with your in-laws you bailed in order to score a taste of Hurricane Eugene.