A group of storm systems in the Northwest Pacific will deliver a series of swells to Northern California beginning this weekend. The above image shows the swell wave height and direction for Friday, September 24th at 5 a.m. Pacific time. Let’s take a look at the Half Moon Bay buoy (@buoy46012) to see how these swell trains look on the model.
The first pulse builds late Friday, peaking overnight at 8.5 feet at 13.1 seconds. The swell is forecast to then decline through the weekend. This peak in the chart represents the first group of yellow and orange that is visible in the map above.
The next swell has a longer period and builds Sunday into Monday, peaking at 12.1 feet at 14.6 seconds, and corresponds with the deep red portion of the swell height map above. This swell receives a reinforcement on Tuesday, bumping up slightly before declining through Wednesday.
Follow @buoy46012 on Twitter for real-time swell height and swell period observations from the Half Moon Bay buoy.