As of 8:00 a.m. PDT on Wednesday, August 3, 2011 (Advisory #14): Hurricane Eugene strengthened slightly overnight, and is currently producing maximum sustained winds of 125 mph with higher gusts. The Hurricane encountered a patch of higher ocean heat content that may have aided this intensification, but exits this region by this afternoon and may currently be at its peak strength, with increasingly colder waters expected as it tracks WNW at 14 mph.
The detailed swell forecast for the Point Loma South buoy (as of 11:00 p.m. PDT Tuesday) shows the swell component generated by Hurricane Eugene (green line above) peaking at that location around Friday at noon (4.8 feet at 13.4 seconds 169°). The swell direction rotates South as it fades through the weekend, settling in around 180° by Sunday.
Given Eugene’s overnight strengthening, it’s likely that the next Wavewatch model run will see a further increase in forecast swell height, as well as an increase in swell period, pushing the arrival time forward a bit further. We’ll provide an update once those models become available.