Hawaii surf forecast update for December 13th, 2011: After a few days of strong northeast winds and lackluster surf, get ready for another round of solid northwest swells, with surf heights forecast to get progressively larger throughout the week.
Summary: Fun northwest swell for the north shore on Wednesday, slightly bigger with better winds on Thursday, then advisory level surf on Friday. The northwest swell slowly fades through the weekend, so there will be leftovers for the weekend warriors, but east-northeast trade winds will be increasing in strength, so expect additional wind swell and surface texture.
At the moment, northeast wind swell is still dominant, but a new long-period northwest pulse is slowly filling in underneath it. This swell is forecast to continue building overnight, with conditions at the Waimea Bay station expected to reach 4 feet at 14 seconds (323°) by Wednesday morning, and moderate east to east-northeast winds in the 10-13 knot range blowing throughout the day.
Thursday, December 15th: A northwest reinforcement bumps surf heights up a notch on Thursday, with swell conditions expected to peak mid-morning at 6 feet at 14 seconds (322°). This swell holds throughout the day, with steady east winds at 10 knots. A fading, short-period northeast wind swell component will also be in the water, with energy in the 3 feet at 7 seconds range (53°).
Friday, December 16th: Surf heights continue their ascent on Friday, building rapidly throughout the day to advisory levels. The swell is currently expected to peak Friday evening at 11 feet at 14 seconds (319°), with east-northeast (78°-68°) winds forecast to increase in strength to 15 knots as the day progresses.
While wave heights will easily be biggest on Friday, the moderate winds could make for some tough, side-shore conditions, depending on where you surf. The winds are only expected to get stronger as we move into the weekend (approaching 20 knots), which means more side-shore chop, and an increasing northeast wind swell component on Saturday and Sunday as the northwest swell slowly fades through Monday.