Next week’s forecast is looking amazing, with a ton of South swell expected beginning Monday and lasting throughout the week. Forerunners from the first pulse are expected as early as tomorrow, with 17-second energy filling overnight. (1) Swell conditions of 3-4 feet at 16 seconds (186°) are expected on Monday, with wave heights on the rise throughout the day, possibly reaching high surf advisory levels.
(2) A second, more powerful South pulse is forecast to build quickly Monday night, with forerunners in the 25-second range. By Tuesday morning, energy from the second pulse is forecast to be 4 feet at 19 seconds, which will actually fill over the existing South swell of 4 feet at 14 seconds.
(3) Expect wave heights to reach advisory levels on Tuesday, as the second South swell continues to build. Both swells share the same wave direction (186°), so it will be interesting to see how they interact, particularly on Tuesday afternoon. Be on the lookout for possible rouge sets.
(4) Advisory level surf continues into Wednesday, as wave heights from the second pulse peak around 4 feet at 15 seconds (187°). Background energy from the first swell also lingers on Wednesday at 3 feet at 12 seconds (184°).
Looking back on the Big Wednesday swell that hit earlier this Summer (June 22, 2011), primary swell conditions at Buoy 51003 maxed out around 7 feet at 16 seconds, and the Barbers Point buoy hit 5 feet at 17 seconds. With overlapping pulses and the hefty swell-period, next Wednesday could easily be a Summer sequel.